Jalapeño pink wine—or “spicy rosé” as its TikTok progenitor calls it—first began strutting around the internet back in April. Creator Allyssa in the Kitchen posted a video of herself in a rosé-toned bikini, pouring six or seven ounces of the skin-contact beverage into a glass, before plonking in a half-inch slice of green chile. I learned about it only last week, when San Francisco Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recounted how, “nearly immediately,” it became a viral sensation.

“My first reaction was one that I suspect many of my wine-lover readers will share,” wrote Mobley. “This is blasphemous.”

I knew I needed to spring it on my unsuspecting parents immediately. “Maybe this was dreamed up to punish rosé for getting too big for its britches,” mused my mother, after a single sip. “Isn’t it considered ‘basic’ now?” My father agreed: “Yeah, I’m not really seeing it,” he said, after he took a gulp and then sneezed 12 times consecutively.

I kind of was seeing it. On Mobley’s advice, I purchased an otherwise unremarkable (and inexpensive) bottle of rosé, which was somewhat watery and a little sweet for my palate. But the addition of jalapeño transforms it into something more, almost like an ultra-light sangria with a pleasant undercurrent of heat.

Wine with spice is, of course, nothing new. Many reds can be described as peppery just from their natural fermentations, and as far as external intervention goes, the Lescombes Family Vineyards in New Mexico have been producing Hatch green chile-infused wine for several decades.

As for the inception of this more recent and heavy-handed rendition, Allyssa Marshall (a.k.a. Allyssa in the Kitchen), says, “It’s a running joke amongst my followers that I add jalapeños to all of my cocktails. I was sipping rosé on a TikTok livestream one night in April for happy hour, and a follower commented daring me to add a jalapeno to my rosé. I dropped a few pepper slices into my glass, gave it a sip…and just like that, spicy rosé was born.”

Ashely Peters, sommelier at New York City’s Semma, says that she views the trend as “a neat party trick to liven up cheap, sweet, rosé.” But, she cautions, “I would definitely avoid adding jalapeño to a pale, dry rosé, such as something from Provence, as it would overwhelm the delicate flavors.” She recommends a very cold, sweeter glass. “The heat from the pepper could decrease your perception of the sweetness and make the wine taste drier. The red fruit and citrus flavors will complement the spice of the pepper.”

Aaron Thompson, co-owner and sommelier of aperitivo bar Brother Wolf as well as restaurant Osteria Stella in Knoxville, Tenn., says that jalapeño rosé initially struck him as “odd and off-putting.” But after some consideration, he reconsidered. It reminded him of the summer of 2016, when bars were scrambling to add frosé to their menus. “While it may have caused many a wine snob to gasp in disgust, frosé also helped usher in a wave of modern and respectable frozen cocktails,” he says. “It was the wine cocktail that refused to take itself too seriously.”

According to Thompson, there’s no reason why spicy rosé can’t be the next wave of unpretentious wine cocktail. “What we are seeing at Brother Wolf and Osteria Stella is that post-pandemic, our guests want to come drink at our bar for more than just the alcohol. They want an experience,” he says. “They are less concerned with pretenses and more concerned than ever with creating lasting memories.”

Like the one I’ll always have of my dad, 12 sneezes in, reaching for another sip.